{"id":999,"date":"2026-04-05T13:40:54","date_gmt":"2026-04-05T11:40:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.bonjour-reims.fr\/en\/?p=999"},"modified":"2026-04-05T13:40:54","modified_gmt":"2026-04-05T11:40:54","slug":"forum-square-reims-weekend-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.bonjour-reims.fr\/en\/forum-square-reims-weekend-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"A weekend in the most local neighbourhood in Reims"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"999\" class=\"elementor elementor-999\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e3bce6b e-flex e-con-boxed e-con e-parent\" data-id=\"e3bce6b\" data-element_type=\"container\" data-e-type=\"container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"e-con-inner\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-328a245 elementor-widget elementor-widget-html\" data-id=\"328a245\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"html.default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<link rel=\"alternate\" hreflang=\"fr\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.bonjour-reims.fr\/quartier-place-du-forum-reims\/\" \/>\n<link rel=\"alternate\" hreflang=\"en\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.bonjour-reims.fr\/en\/forum-square-reims-weekend-guide\/\" \/>\n<link rel=\"alternate\" hreflang=\"x-default\" href=\"https:\/\/blog.bonjour-reims.fr\/quartier-place-du-forum-reims\/\" \/>\n\n<link rel=\"preconnect\" href=\"https:\/\/fonts.googleapis.com\">\n<link rel=\"preconnect\" href=\"https:\/\/fonts.gstatic.com\" crossorigin>\n<link href=\"https:\/\/fonts.googleapis.com\/css2?family=Cormorant+Garamond:ital,wght@0,400;0,600;1,400;1,600&family=Nunito+Sans:wght@400;600;700&display=swap\" rel=\"stylesheet\">\n\n<style>\n:root {\n  --forum-stone: #8B6F5E;\n  --forum-stone-light: #A6907F;\n  --forum-warm: #C4956A;\n  --forum-cream: #F5F0EB;\n  --forum-cream-dark: #EAE4DC;\n  --forum-dark: #3D2E24;\n  --forum-text: #2C2420;\n  --forum-text-light: #6B5D54;\n  --forum-white: #FDFBF9;\n  --font-serif: 'Cormorant Garamond', Georgia, serif;\n  --font-sans: 'Nunito Sans', 'Segoe UI', sans-serif;\n}\n\n.forum-article { padding: 0 20px; 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font-size: 14px; color: var(--forum-text-light); line-height: 1.6; margin-bottom: 6px; }\n.forum-card-meta { font-family: var(--font-sans); font-size: 12px; color: var(--forum-stone-light); }\n.forum-card-meta span { margin-right: 14px; }\n.forum-badge { display: inline-block; font-family: var(--font-sans); font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: 1.5px; text-transform: uppercase; background: var(--forum-warm); color: #fff; padding: 2px 10px; border-radius: 3px; margin-right: 8px; vertical-align: middle; }\n.forum-badge-muted { background: var(--forum-cream-dark); color: var(--forum-stone); }\n<\/style>\n\n<article class=\"forum-article\">\n\n<div class=\"forum-chapeau\">\n  <div class=\"recit-label\">Explore<\/div>\n  <div class=\"recit-titre\">Place du Forum<\/div>\n  <div class=\"recit-sub\">A weekend in the most Reims neighbourhood in Reims<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<p class=\"forum-intro\"><strong>The story of a couple who ditched the itinerary and nailed the weekend.<\/strong> We had planned a weekend in Reims. Reims had other ideas. Here's what happened when we stopped following the plan.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\" style=\"border-top:none;padding-top:0;\">Friday, late afternoon<\/h2>\n\n<p>We had it all figured out. The cathedral, a champagne cellar tour, a nice dinner. The holy trinity of a Reims weekend \u2014 the one the tourist board dreamed up for you and that you dutifully execute upon arrival on Friday evening. Except we dropped our bags in a duplex tucked inside a neoclassical 1859 townhouse, and before closing the door, we spotted a square twenty metres away. Terraces, a fountain, people who looked like they knew something we didn't. We told ourselves we'd just take a look. That's always how it starts.<\/p>\n\n<p>The Place du Forum earns its name, as it happens. This is where the forum of Durocortorum once stood \u2014 Roman-era Reims \u2014 at the crossroads of the two main axes of the ancient city. Built around 100&nbsp;AD, it was the beating heart of public and commercial life. Twenty centuries on, the togas have given way to caf\u00e9 terraces, but the principle hasn't shifted an inch: people gather, drink, comment on the state of the world. The Romans would have recognised the vibe.<\/p>\n\n<p>A handful of terraces ring a neat square fountain and border the stone steps of the cryptoporticus \u2014 a set of Gallo-Roman underground galleries dating from the 1st century, one of only four ever excavated in France. A florist, a cheese shop, a wine merchant, a greengrocer, restaurants, bars. This neighbourhood figured out something most city centres have forgotten: you don't attract people, you give them no reason to leave. Down every side street, something hides \u2014 a story, a fa\u00e7ade, a passage to the unexpected. Our itinerary was abandoned somewhere between the first sip of champagne and sunset. The cathedral can wait.<\/p>\n\n<p>That evening, we did manage to keep our reservation at Le Crypto. Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Dupont, formerly of Les Cray\u00e8res and Le Mill\u00e9naire \u2014 two of the city's most celebrated kitchens \u2014 opened his own place here. Precise bistronomy, a wine list that means business, service that makes you feel like they've been expecting you all along. The dining room looks out onto the square. We eat very well, which in Reims is not exactly a feat but remains a pleasure. Walking out, the last terraces are stacking their chairs. We've forgotten the cathedral. Never mind \u2014 Back to the duplex. Sauna. Bed.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\">Saturday morning<\/h2>\n\n<p>We head to Paintagruelique, the neighbourhood's award-winning bakery. At this hour, the clientele is composed exclusively of R\u00e9mois who know exactly what they're doing. There's a form of silent solidarity in the Saturday morning queue: no one speaks, everyone knows why they're here. We pick up a few treasures and keep walking.<\/p>\n\n<p>Five minutes further, the Halles du Boulingrin. Eug\u00e8ne Freyssinet's reinforced concrete vault, 1920s, listed monument. Picture an Art Deco cathedral where the congregation has turned up with shopping bags. Saturday morning at the Boulingrin is to Reims what Sunday mass is to other French towns: a ritual, a fervour, an act of faith in eating well. We drift between the stalls, feeling oddly alive, almost giddy. We buy vegetables picked the day before, pink biscuits in tin boxes, a bottle we hadn't planned on. The Boulingrin does this: it turns modest intentions into overflowing baskets. You come for two tomatoes, you leave ready for a banquet.<\/p>\n\n<p>Walking back towards the square, we stop at La Cave aux Fromages. The shop has been here since 1973. Some businesses don't need a brand narrative to survive the decades \u2014 a good Chaource, a farmhouse Langres, and a properly aged Comt\u00e9 will do the trick. We go in for a piece. We come out with a full platter and the quiet certainty of having solved the dinner question.<\/p>\n\n<p>Across the square, the window of Centaurea spills onto the pavement. Here, the flowers speak for themselves. Arrangements that change every week, colour combinations you'd never have thought of. We were just passing through. We walk out with a bouquet under our arm, wondering vaguely at what point we made that decision. This neighbourhood has a consent problem when it comes to commerce: you buy nothing, and you leave with everything.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\">Saturday lunch<\/h2>\n\n<p>We settle in at \u00d6&nbsp;Double&nbsp;A, just opposite Le Vergeur. The kind of place that doesn't need a flashy sign and knows it. Traditional home cooking, grower champagnes at prices that don't require a quiet word with your bank account, a quiet terrace tucked away from the action. The locals pass this one around in whispers, like a tip you don't post on the internet. We're comfortable. We're decidedly comfortable in Reims.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\">Saturday afternoon<\/h2>\n\n<p>We take Rue de Tambour again. We look up and stand there for a moment, planted in the middle of the pavement like tourists \u2014 which, after all, is what we are. Five figures carved into the stone of a 13th-century fa\u00e7ade: a harpist, a hurdy-gurdy player, a singer. Set on an ordinary house, no plaque, no barrier, no audio guide. They've been playing up there for eight centuries, above the street, for anyone who cares to look up. It's the Maison des Musiciens, by the way. In Reims, heritage doesn't always wait for you to visit. Sometimes it just lands on you round a corner.<\/p>\n\n<p>We push a little further. Le Cellier, a former champagne shipping warehouse built in 1898, converted into a cultural space \u2014 contemporary art exhibitions, live performances. We walk in because the door is open and we have time \u2014 two conditions rarely met in everyday life. We go down to the basement and stumble upon something we weren't expecting. It's free. It's Reims. The pleasant surprises here come included in the price of the stay.<\/p>\n\n<p>Heading back to the square, we stop at Les Caves du Forum, yet another institution \u2014 over four thousand references, voted wine shop of the year by La Revue du Vin de France. We let the sommelier guide us, and he puts in our hands a grower champagne from the Montagne de Reims that we'd never have found on our own. The kind of bottle that doesn't exist in your supermarket back home and costs less than the one that does.<\/p>\n\n<p>And then we end up at the <a href=\"\/en\/5-unmissable-champagne-bars-in-reims\">Wine Bar by Le Vintage<\/a>. Award-winning bar, Reims' reference for grower champagne. Nicolas and Pierre-Louis Papavero built their list by hand \u2014 every champagne selected after visiting the producer in person. Twelve hundred references, four hundred champagnes. The kind of place where you ask a polite question and the answer lasts twenty minutes, three glasses, and a complete shift in your understanding of bubbles. We came for a drink. We left with an education.<\/p>\n\n<p>For dinner, we no longer have the energy to be sophisticated. We take Rue Salin down to Alba \u2014 Neapolitan pizza, burrata, ingredients shipped straight from Italy. A beautiful Italian mess in a building steeped in history. We eat with our hands, we talk too loud, we have no regrets. After a day like this, the only risk is finding your own city a bit bland when you get home.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\">Sunday morning<\/h2>\n\n<p>We inevitably return to Paintagruelique. Traditional croissants, pastries for lunch. The queue is longer than yesterday \u2014 on Sundays, the families take over from the early risers. We wait. We're in no rush. We haven't been in a rush about anything since Friday evening, come to think of it. Reims does this to people: it switches off the urgency.<\/p>\n\n<p>We push open the garden gate of the Mus\u00e9e-H\u00f4tel Le Vergeur, drawn in by a few piano notes. Behind the walls, it's another world entirely \u2014 12th-century Romanesque arches rescued from demolition, the portal of a former cloister, fragments of Reims architecture gathered in a garden where time has clearly decided to park and stay a while. A piano stands there, open, available to anyone who wants to play. Someone has sat down and is playing something we don't recognise. We take a bench. Outside, the square goes about its business. In here, it's Sunday for real.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\">Sunday lunch<\/h2>\n\n<p>We set up on the stone steps of the cryptoporticus with our good bread, the Chaource we bought yesterday, our grower champagne from the Montagne de Reims, and this morning's pastries. A chic picnic in the sun, facing the square, two thousand years of history at our backs. We're eating where the Romans held their market. It's absurd and it's perfect. If the Romans had known about Chaource, they might never have left.<\/p>\n\n<h2 class=\"forum-time\">Sunday afternoon<\/h2>\n\n<p>We finally make it to the cathedral. We were meant to start here, true enough. But nothing really prepares you for what hits you when you push through that door \u2014 the light in the nave, Chagall's stained glass, and that fa\u00e7ade that stops you dead the moment you turn around. Eight centuries of coronations and stone, all at once, right in the face. We stand there, heads tilted back, wondering how we ever put this second on the list. The answer is that in Reims, even the second line on the programme is a masterpiece.<\/p>\n\n<p>On the way back, we stop at Pommery. The cellars, the cray\u00e8res \u2014 ancient chalk pits repurposed as champagne caves \u2014 the art, the history, the champagne. Reims has this habit of saving something for the end, like a waiter bringing you a dessert you didn't order. We leave with two bottles and the urge to come back. The cathedral, we'll do it first next time. Probably not.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"forum-signature\">\n  <div class=\"sig-names\">JB & G.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"sig-bio\">Professional itinerary abandoners.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<\/article>\n\n<!-- PRACTICAL INFO -->\n<div class=\"forum-reperes\">\n<div class=\"forum-reperes-inner\">\n\n<div class=\"forum-reperes-title\">Practical info<\/div>\n<div class=\"forum-reperes-subtitle\">Place du Forum & surroundings<\/div>\n\n<!-- STAY -->\n<div class=\"forum-cat\">Where to stay<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\"><a href=\"https:\/\/noctambulle-reims.fr\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">La Noctambulle Forum<\/a><\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Duplex in an 1859 townhouse. Private spa.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 8 rue du Marc<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd17 <a href=\"https:\/\/noctambulle-reims.fr\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" style=\"color:var(--forum-stone);text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--forum-warm);\">noctambulle-reims.fr<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\"><a href=\"https:\/\/reverie-reims.fr\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">La R\u00eaverie<\/a><\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Charming apartment with hammam, steps from Place du Forum.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 8 rue du Marc<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd17 <a href=\"https:\/\/reverie-reims.fr\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" style=\"color:var(--forum-stone);text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--forum-warm);\">reverie-reims.fr<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<!-- EAT & DRINK -->\n<div class=\"forum-cat\">Eat & drink<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Le Crypto<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Bistronomy by chef Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Dupont (ex-Cray\u00e8res, ex-Mill\u00e9naire). <span class=\"forum-badge\">Gault & Millau<\/span> <span class=\"forum-badge\">Michelin<\/span> Booking recommended.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 14 place du Forum<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Tue\u2013Sat lunch & dinner<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">\u00d6 Double A<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Traditional home cooking, grower champagnes, quiet terrace opposite Le Vergeur.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 32 place du Forum<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Tue\u2013Sat lunch, Thu\u2013Sat dinner<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card-group\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-group-title\">The square's terraces<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-group-list\">\n    <strong>Chez Armand<\/strong> \u2014 bistrot, seasonal cooking, natural wines \u2014 daily<br>\n    <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lebistrotduforum.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\" style=\"color:var(--forum-dark);border-bottom:1px solid var(--forum-warm);text-decoration:none;\">Le Bistrot du Forum<\/a><\/strong> \u2014 traditional home cooking, great wine list<br>\n    <strong>Le G\u00e9n\u00e9ral<\/strong> \u2014 caf\u00e9, for a daytime drink in the sun\n  <\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\" style=\"margin-top:8px;\"><span>\ud83d\udccd Place du Forum<\/span><span>Terraces facing the fountain<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\"><a href=\"\/en\/5-unmissable-champagne-bars-in-reims\">Wine Bar by Le Vintage<\/a><\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Award-winning bar, Reims' reference for grower champagne. 1,200 references, 400 champagnes, sharing boards. Papavero brothers.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 16 place du Forum<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Alba<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Neapolitan pizza, burrata, Italian ingredients straight from the source.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 5 rue Salin<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Tue\u2013Sat lunch & dinner, Sun lunch<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<!-- SHOPS -->\n<div class=\"forum-cat\">Shops<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">La Cave aux Fromages<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Julie Verzeaux, house-aged cheeses, custom platters. Since 1973.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 12 place du Forum<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Tue\u2013Sat<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Centaurea<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Artisan florist, Pascal. Seasonal arrangements, remarkable window displays.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 42 place du Forum<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Mon\u2013Sat 9am\/7pm, Sun 10am\/12:30pm<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Les Caves du Forum<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Reims institution, 4,000 wine and champagne references. Voted wine shop of the year (Revue du Vin de France).<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd Place du Forum<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Paintagruelique<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Artisan bakery, sourdough, babkas, pastries. <span class=\"forum-badge\">Gault & Millau<\/span><\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 30 rue de Tambour<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Wed\u2013Sat 6:30am\/7:30pm, Sun 6:30am\/1:30pm \u00b7 Closed Mon\u2013Tue<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<!-- VISIT & WANDER -->\n<div class=\"forum-cat\">Visit & wander<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Cryptoporticus<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">1st-century Gallo-Roman underground galleries beneath the square. Stone steps accessible \u2014 perfect for a picnic or summer concerts.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd Place du Forum<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Concerts au Crypto<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Rock, folk, chanson on the steps of the Roman galleries. No booking required.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udd50 June\u2013August, Thu & Fri 7pm<\/span><span class=\"forum-badge-muted forum-badge\">Free<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Mus\u00e9e-H\u00f4tel Le Vergeur<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Museum in a 13th\u201318th century townhouse. Garden with Romanesque arches and a piano \u2014 open to all, free of charge.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 36 place du Forum<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Tue\u2013Sun 10am\/6pm<\/span><span>\ud83d\udcb6 \u20ac5 (garden free)<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Maison des Musiciens<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">13th-century fa\u00e7ade with five carved musician figures. In plain sight, no barrier.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 18-20 rue de Tambour<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Le Cellier<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Former champagne warehouse (1898) turned cultural space. Contemporary art exhibitions, performances.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 4 bis rue de Mars<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Wed\u2013Sun 2pm\/6pm<\/span><span class=\"forum-badge-muted forum-badge\">Free entry<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Boulingrin Market Hall<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Covered market under Freyssinet's monumental concrete vault (1929). Local producers, cheese makers, greengrocers.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd Rue de Mars<\/span><span>\ud83d\udd50 Fri 7am\/1pm, Sat 6am\/2pm<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Reims Cathedral<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Gothic masterpiece, site of French royal coronations for eight centuries. Chagall stained glass. 600m from Place du Forum.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd Place du Cardinal Lu\u00e7on<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"forum-card\">\n  <div class=\"forum-card-name\">Pommery<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-detail\">Listed cellars and cray\u00e8res (ancient chalk pits), underground contemporary art, tastings.<\/div>\n  <div class=\"forum-card-meta\"><span>\ud83d\udccd 5 place du G\u00e9n\u00e9ral Gouraud<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\">\n{\n  \"@context\": \"https:\/\/schema.org\",\n  \"@type\": \"Article\",\n  \"headline\": \"Place du Forum \u2014 a weekend in the most Reims neighbourhood in Reims\",\n  \"description\": \"The story of a weekend spent around Place du Forum in Reims. 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